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Petr Denemarek - knife under the tree

01.01.20 787x Read

Petr Denemarek - knife under the tree

Petr Denemarek 

Handwritten manufacture knives were several good reasons reckless idea. Judge for yourself:

1. Previous experience with "DIY" started and ended assembling cabinets from a furniture store or fitting shelves on the wall anchors. I professions office rat

2. I did not know how the knife look like (except the kitchen), I did not consult with anyone

3. From the necessary tools I had only a drill

4. The only place in the apartment, which come into consideration as a work area was 2.6 m2 closet hopelessly cluttered with junk

The first step was the creation of at least a minimum operating space, the acquisition of basic tools and material for producing blade (s).

Because in a small room with a floor plan of 2.00 x 1.30 meters are located and two shelves, table top has a dimension of only 40 x 80 cm. Needed stability gave bolting plate longer side wall. Regarding the tools for the production of the first knives I used: vice (for confined space must rotary), hand hacksaw, combined disc and a belt sander (primitive for 990 CZK fig.) Drill, drill a stand vice, grit abrasive belts 40, 80 and 120 to the grinding and sanding cloth grit 40, 80, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400 for manual grinding, polishing wheels to drill plus paste (set of hobby market). A set of needle nail files (at least triangular, round and square section), rasps (flat and round), drills and saws into slices. Important: gloves, goggles, earplugs.

On the first attempt, I ordered on 50x550mm K110 steel with a thickness of 3.5 mm, which lasts the four blades. Furthermore, weaker brass sheet (1 mm) and thicker (5 mm) brass rod 4mm red fiber thinner (0.8 mm) and thicker (5.5 mm), linseed oil, carnauba wax, two component adhesive. A wood handle, if you have your own (I used a plum from its own resources).


The inspiration was tutorials and discussion forums:


1. Proposal shape of the blade, cutting and tracing the white marker on a sheet of K110

2. To cut out the shape of the blade most cutlers recommends angle grinders that do not, and it\'s very noisy (increased risk of neighborly disputes in the house). With success, I used a manual hacksaw. You need to purchase a "better" slices into Saws (eg. The Swedish BI-METAL, normally at hobby stores) and then it goes relatively quickly and easily. After a while I sawed and the arcs.

 3. FINISHED\'ve refined shape for disc sander



4. Following the fourth cut edge on the belt sander. I edged out of hand, in addition to luggage for longer blade wheel, but everything is a matter of practice, and after the first cut came out inadvertently lenticular, with the following three I was already relatively satisfied. The blade can mark the center of the edge line to be cut symmetrical. Grit sanding belt 40 and the first skew edge angle of 45 ° (allegedly sparing abrasive belt). Then I cut grind flat from both sides. Nebrousím completely into the blade to blade wrinkled during hardening.

 Then I still recut belts 80 grit and 120 hand-to 320. Next sand the only belts because after hardening it is necessary edge dobrousit and just then I had to regrind the finer screens all over again. And with four blades grinding it adds up.

5. For two blade pierced, I rap, I can assure blade inside the handle brass pin. The drill I Dokoupil stand with vice. Ordinary drill iron is just stupid (even when the material of sebum oil), so it pays harder drills (eg. On stainless steel). For larger holes pre-drilled first bit smaller. Needless to emphasize that instead of drilling marked the first punch.

6. tang needle a file We create the behavior notches to better hold epoxy glued to the handle. 

 7. Inspired seventh tutorials on the Internet, on the back of the blade, I honed round of emery notches as decoration or as support for the thumb.

8. You can now send nothing prevents the blade to a hardening shop. I chose Medin hardening shop in New Town in Moravia, which offers vacuum hardening and tempering. With the result I was satisfied, I have not noticed any changes in shape. Maybe it\'s because the blade is tempered suspended, so at the end tang I drilled a small hole there, so it was nothing to hang. Payment is made at least one kilogram of the material, so the hardening single blade does not pay for my 4 it was already o.k .. Next time I\'ll even more, it is for the same money.

9. When I return from hardening into a sharp blade dobrousil grinder and then gradually hand přebrušoval on screens up to 400 grit followed by buffing to drill, first the felt disc and blue paste, then roll flannel and white paste.

After polishing the blade wrap it in paper and they are wrapped with duct tape that during subsequent handling scratched.

10. Another step is to cut and sanded guards and fiber washers. The shape of the first cut from the paper, and then redraw the material and cut a hacksaw. The hole in the middle create a series of drill holes, which then get in touch obliquely guided drill and needle files We create the behavior. 3 Guard I cut out of brass, but for the first I used K110 3.5 mm thickness (the same material from which the blade). This material is laborious machining, however it goes and polish can be just like a blade (the picture is still unpolished). Patronage Of course, I did not send blurring. Fiber\'ve carved out a hacksaw and drill pierced. Thin fiber (which I have used in other handles) can be cut with scissors.

11. From wood to handle a handsaw coarsely cut a prism that the required dimension sand rasp. Subsequently drill a hole for rap. Proved to me first prism clamped in a vise to drill stands and by drill compared to the perpendicular. Drill a series of holes. The stand has a stroke of only 6 cm, however it suffices and holes can then deepen in the classic vice from his hand. Subsequently connect the holes.

12. Next, I handle future drilled from the side for passing through a brass pin. If we\'ve drilled vertically, it\'s not as difficult as it might seem. Instead of drilling a mark after application of the blade to the handle auspices.

13.Handle will put together a "dry"

14. If everything is in order, Mix the two-part epoxy, gradually I am applying to the individual components of the handle (including ensuring bolts) and compose all together.


15. Grinding final shape of the handle is handmade with a rasp..


16. 16. And there is a final water bath warm up 2 hours in a mixture of carnauba wax and linseed oil (20/80).

This is a knife ready. I worked for four blades simultaneously, one is not yet finished. For two, I chose a modified handle (patronage of brass and brass head screwed on the end). Knives do not show, however, the purpose wholly fulfilled.

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